Legions of giggling schoolchildren, high-spirited college students, trysting lovers, coy honeymooners, and tourists, both frivolous and serious, have traveled the 60 odd kilometers from Madras to Mamallapuram. I have made the trek, too, several times, in all these capacities, the first over four decades ago.
I remember those early journeys quite vividly. The city of Madras faded away gently just past Adyar, and the road to Mahabalipuram, or Mahabs, as it was known then, stretched on endlessly, narrow and bumpy, into the hazy heat, with very little to break the views of the vast sand dunes to the left, the thrilling glimpses of the shimmering sea glinting through the groves of casuarina, the little fisherman's villages with their thatched huts open to the elements, and the emerald-green paddy fields and banana plantations to the right. It was a landscape of timeless beauty, with only the odd house that broke though the mirage of heat. Along the way there was the Cholamandalam Artist's Village, Muttukadu, with its creaky, leaky row boats, Silver Sands, Fisherman's Cove, the Crocodile Farm with its blood-tinglingly sharp-toothed crocodiles that lunged just out of harm's reach, and later, in the 1970s, the first of the eyesores, the VGP Golden Beach Resort, the sight of which would be hilarious if it were not so ugly.
Today, there is little that the traveler of the 1960s and 1970s would recognize on that drive. The East Coast Road, a spanking new four-lane highway, is a joy to drive on. But now dozens of water parks, shops, hotels, restaurants of every stripe, many of them proudly sporting the "multi-cuisine" label, cinema halls, names like Prarthana, Maayajaal, Ahaa Water Park, Dizzee World, Little Folks, Marrybrown, the lovely, must-see Dakshinchitra, dozens of bill-boards, more, so many more, rush by in a blur. Countless new houses dot the stretch of land between the highway and the sea. The old haunts are still there, VGP looking even louder and more garish, if that were possible, Fish Cove, as posh and desirable as ever, the crocodiles of the Crocodile Farm as heart-stoppingly fierce as always. Right next to Mamallapuram, there is now the GRT Temple Bay Resort, a worthy rival to Fisherman's Cove.
Trips to Mahabalipuram - sorry, Mamallapuram simply does not come naturally to me, you know about how difficult it is to teach an old dog new tricks, and all that - were always great fun. But really, thinking about those visits now, what amazes me is how little I knew about the place, and the wonders I gazed at. So, looking through some photographs from my most recent visit, I was inspired to dig a little deeper, and learn more about that beautiful place that my history books and lessons taught me so little about.Mahabalipuram was the maritime capital of the Pallavas, a Tamilian dynasty that ruled in today's northern Tamil Nadu and parts of Andhra Pradesh. Travelers from Europe have been visiting Mahabalipuram, as they did nearby Madras, Pondicherry and Poompuhar (which lies further down the coast), since at least the 1st century AD. The Pallava Dynasty may have come into being then, but its real flowering took place in the 7th and 8th centuries. Their capital city was Kanchipuram, but Mahabalipuram, an important sea port for the Pallavas, gained in importance because of the extensive sea trade that took place with the kingdoms of South East Asia. Many of the beautiful monuments and temples that were carved out of the granite and stone that lay abundant in that area, date from around the 7th century.
For many centuries, there have been rumors and tales of temples submerged in the sea - of which now, just one, the Shore Temple, stands visible, lovely and lonely, gazing out to sea, its stark beauty enhanced by the barren vistas of sand and stone and wispy wind-swept casuarina all around. Marco Polo is said to have visited Santhome (now in modern-day Madras) where he was regaled with tales of the lost temples of Mahabalipuram. His descriptions found their way, in part, to the Catalan Atlas of 1375. The Catalan Atlas is one of the most important atlases of the medieval era, and was put together by a Catalan Jew (from Spain) called Abraham Cresques. It shows India in peninsular form, and Mahabalipuram is mentioned there as "Setemelti", which is assumed to be an erroneous version of "Sette Templi" - or seven temples.
Map of Central Asia and India, Catalan Atlas, from the Bibliotheque Nationale de France
The legends, rumors - or facts - of the Seven Temples captured the imagination of the Britishers and Europeans who visited Mahabalipuram in the 18th century and beyond, and they often referred to Mahabalipuram as Seven Pagodas. It even made its way into English literature in Robert Southey's epic poem The Curse of the Kehama, which was written in 1810. Robert Southey was an Englishman who never visited India, but he did not let that faze him. He was endowed with a vivid imagination, which he employed in full measure in The Curse of the Kehama, a tale filled with extraordinary melodrama and a twisting, hard-to-follow plot. It is a classic example of Orientalism at its most flamboyant, dramatic and graphic, with all sorts of absurd and titillating details about the Hindoo and his monstrous fables and mythology. Here is an excerpt, set in Mahabalipuram. Imagine the protagonists, standing at the seashore and gazing out at the submerged pagodas.Their golden summits in the noon-day light
Shone o'er the dark green deep that rolled between.
For domes and pinnacles and spires were seen
Peering above the sea......a mournful sight!
Well might the sad beholder ween from thence
What works of wonder the devouring wave
Had swallowed here, when monuments so brave
Bore record of their own magnificence.
And on the sandy shore, beside the verge of ocean,
Here and there a rock-hewn fane
Resisted in its strength the surf and surge
That on its deep foundations beat in vain.
In solitude the Ancient Temples stood
Once resonant with instrument and song
And solemn dance of festive multitude;
Now as the weary ages pass along
Hearing no voice save of the ocean flood
Which roar for ever on their restless shores
Or visiting the solitary caves
The lonely sound of winds, that moan around
Accordant to the melancholy waves.
(The Curse of the Kehama, Robert Southey, 1810)
One of the first people to seriously study, describe and analyze the art of Mahabalipuram was William Chambers, a Scottish architect who voyaged to India in the 1770s. He wrote his "Account of the Sculptures and Ruins at Mavalipuram, A Place a few Miles North of Sadras, and known to Seamen by the Name of the Seven Pagodas" in the first volume of the "Asiatick Researches" in the late 1700s, in which he described in great detail, the "stupendous" monuments he saw at Mahabalipuram, and also attempted to delve into its history while bemoaning the pitfalls and difficulties in doing so in a place like India where it seemed impossible to unravel fact from fable, superstition and mythology. Other Europeans who visited Mahabalipuram mention how many of the monuments were submerged in sand, or covered with shrubbery, with pieces of rubble all around.
Today, it is heart-warming to see that the Mamallapuram complex is impeccably maintained, spotlessly clean and without a speck of rubbish in sight. There is the expected gaggle of over-eager guides but by and large they are good-natured and don't push their services too hard. The one who succeeded in attaching himself to us was one Delhi Babu. He had given himself that name, he told us proudly, because he had once visited Delhi, and even knew several words of Hindi to prove it. He offered to demonstrate his proficiency in Hindi, an offer we declined politely but firmly. He next offered us a choice of other languages in which to carry out his tour-guiding: English, Tamil, Malayalam, Telugu and Kannada. We chose Tamil and English, and they were indistinguishable.
The most famous sights of Mahabalipuram include The Shore Temple, the Five Rathas, named after the Pandava brothers and their wife Draupadi, several mandapams, the Butterball, site of countless futile attempts made over the years to move it, and Arjuna's Penance. It is this last one that I wanted to examine in greater detail.
Arjuna's Penance has been proudly hailed as the world's largest outdoor bas-relief sculpture, measuring almost a hundred feet in length, and around 45 feet in height. The name intrigued me. What was Arjuna's Penance? What was the story, the legend, behind that stunning sculpture that teemed with gods, people and animals that took one's breath away with the perfection of the figures, the attention to all manner of details, the wealth of life and activity it depicted? Unsurprisingly, there are several stories that jostle for supremacy. Stories from the Mahabharata, Ramayana, and Panchatantra!There are many stories in Hindu mythology about penance, or tapasya, the subjecting of the body and mind to severe austerities, pushing aside all distractions and preoccupations, existing in a state of oblivion to everything but the ultimate goal. The goal might be special powers, a weapon, a boon, always something to benefit the seeker. Rarely, if ever, is the penance undertaken as a punishment for wrongdoing or out of remorse.
Back to Arjuna's Penance at Mahabalipuram. The stories about it from the Mahabharata and Ramayana are competing ones, as both refer to the same figure in this sculpture. Look closely, and you will see the figure of a man, standing with his arms held high over his head, balanced on one foot, every bone of his ribcage visibly jutting out. Who is this man? Arjuna, say some. Begone, say others, that is Bhagiratha! Many shrug their shoulders and say, why choose? That is the beauty of this sculpture. Any, or all, answers are acceptable! So, I will present to you both legends. And you decide which one you want it to be - or be a fence-sitter like me and choose both!
The Tale of Arjuna's PenanceThe Pandava brothers, along with their lovely wife Draupadi, had been cheated out of their every single material possession by their venal, greedy, conniving, cheating cousins, the Kauravas. The punishment: banishment from their kingdom, and exile, for 13 long years, in the forest. Needless to say, it was a bitter pill for them to swallow, and life in the forest for these princes, accustomed as they were to the luxuries of their palace and position, was one of unyielding severity, harsh and arduous, particularly for Draupadi. But, endure they had to, and endure they did. In the fifth year of exile, Arjuna, the strong, handsome, brave, loyal third brother, who had no doubt spent countless sleepless nights mulling over their plight and thinking about what would need to be done to reclaim their kingdom once the period of exile had passed, decided that he would need the most powerful weapon that existed in all the worlds, in order to defeat his evil cousins in the war that would surely follow. That weapon was Lord Shiva's weapon, the Paashupata, a divine weapon with terrible powers, invincible and all-powerful, a weapon against which nobody, and nothing, stood a chance.
Arjuna climbed high into the Himalayas, clad only in the skin of a black antelope. With the frigid winds howling around him, subsisting on nothing but the sharp mountain air, he prayed, standing on one foot, arms raised above his head, to Shiva, to grant him the use of the Paashupata. He became gaunt, but was oblivious to the pangs of hunger. Eventually, Shiva was satisfied that Arjuna was sincere in his purpose, that he had suffered enough. Still, he wanted to put him through one last test before granting him the use of the Paashupata. He wanted to make sure that Arjuna possessed the right spirit of humility, for such a weapon as the mighty Paashupata in the hands of one who was vain and proud could cause destruction and disaster beyond repair.
Shiva sent an asura (demon), disguised as a wild boar, near Arjuna. Arjuna, annoyed at being disturbed, shot an arrow at the boar. At that exact instant, another arrow came whistling through the air, and struck the boar. Wheeling around, Arjuna saw a hunter, and the two of them came to blows, each claiming that he had shot the first arrow that struck the boar. The hunter was none other than Shiva, and Arjuna, valiant and strong though he was, was no match for the mighty lord. Battered, bruised and unable to take any more, he lay down his bow and arrow and humbly told the hunter that he, the hunter, was the victor, and that he, Arjuna, was but an insignificant, powerless person who conceded defeat.
In a flash, Shiva, pleased that Arjuna was great enough to recognize a power and force greater than himself, revealed himself as who he really was, and blessed Arjuna and granted him the use of the great Paasupata.
The Tale of Bhagiratha's Penance
This is a story of long, long ago, when the earth was still young and ruled by kings of unearthly power, when the river Ganga flowed high up in the heavens, a river of light, lovely and purifying. King Bhagiratha, a wise and generous king, ruled over his kingdom with a just hand, but he was troubled, as evil was brewing in the land. Evil that bubbled from deep within earth, from the restless souls of his 60,000 ancestors, whose ashes lay trapped in a cavern in the netherworld, unable to obtain release from the shackles of the mortal world. These 60,000 ancestors of Bhagiratha had, aeons earlier, ranged across the world in search of a stray horse that belonged to their father who had used it for an Ashwamedha Yagna (a horse sacrifice ritual common in ancient times). This horse had been captured by lord Indra who spirited it away to the cave of a meditating rishi. The 60,000, commanded by their father to find the horse, set out far and wide, wreaking havoc and terror wherever they went. All over the earth they roamed, over high wind-swept mountains and wild jungles, across raging rivers and barren deserts, and finally, they entered the domain of the underworld, a mysterious, murky world filled with strange and wondrous sights. And deep down, near the very core of the earth, in a cave, dark, dank and damp, they finally found the horse, tethered behind the maharishi Kapila Vasudeva, who was immersed in a profound mediation. Into this cave the 60,000 rushed, roaring, horse hooves thundering, the clash and clang of their spears echoing deafeningly through the hollow cave. The maharishi snapped out of his meditation with a start, and, furious at having been disturbed in this manner, reduced the 60,000 to ashes. In his rage he cursed them: their souls would languish there, writhing, trapped, and only the waters of the Ganga would release them from their earthly captivity.
Many generations passed, and still the ashes remained, unblessed and unreleased. Bhagiratha knew that the time had come for him to act, and he also knew that he had his work cut out for him. Merely bringing the river Ganga down to earth would not be enough. Ganga, vain, swollen with the knowledge of her power and beauty, would come crashing down to earth, and the force of her descent would shatter the world into a million pieces. No, he would have to request lord Shiva, the only one who possessed the power to contain Ganga, to somehow control her fall.
Bhagiratha went to the Himalayas and undertook an excruciating penance in the icy mountains, enduring endless blizzards and unimaginable suffering. He stood on one foot with his arms held high above his head. His hair grew long and matted, and every bone in his body stood out, stark and sharply defined. Eventually, Shiva appeared before Bhagiratha, and promised him that he would bring the Ganga to earth, and also tame her wild spirit, by trapping her in his matted locks, through which she would have to struggle hard to trickle through.
And so it was that Ganga made her way to earth, a docile, mellow Ganga, a far cry from the giddy, impetuous force she had been, softened and subdued by her journey through Shiva's dense, heavy locks. She flowed as several streams, and one followed Bhagiratha as he journed into the underworld and finally entered the cave where the ashes of his 60,000 ancestors lay. The waters of the Ganga washed over them, and thus purified and absolved of their curse, their souls rose, singing, high into the heavens.
No, wait, don't go away yet. I did tell you that there was a story from the Panchatantra as well! Yes, from that charming collection of animal fables, told to educate a couple of thick-headed and slow-witted princes. And of course, there are two versions to this story as well, one distinctly un-Panchatantra-like.
If you look very closely, near the end of the tusk of of the elephant, you will see the figure of a cat, in the same posture of penance as Arjuna or Bhagiratha above. Here is the tale - or tales - of that cat.
The Tale of the Wise CatOnce upon a time, there lived a Partridge, who made his home in a hole near the bottom of a tree. Every day, he would fly out, in search of food, and return in the evening to his hole. Once, several days passed, and the Partridge did not return. In his absence, a long-eared Hare found the hole, and discovered it to be cozy and safe, and moved into it and made himself comfortable there. Barely a few days had passed, when the Partridge returned, and found, to his horror, that his home had been invaded! He ordered the Hare out, but the Hare, invoking the Laws of Residence, refused.
It is a well-known fact, said the Hare
And it is true and completely fair
That whoever occupies a place
Has the right to make it his base
Such is the law of the land
So please go away, that is my command!
The Partridge was not one to go away without a fight. He said:
If there be a dispute over house, well or pond,
'Tis best that we go beyond
What you and I have to say
And instead rely on the advice our neighbors convey
Sure, said the Hare, let us settle our spat
Down by the river bed, where dwells that wise Cat
Now, that Cat was a wily fellow, who had put on great airs of piousness and sanctity, and spent his daytime hours in a pose of penance, paws up in the air, balanced on one foot. He had succeeded in fooling several silly mice and birds who hovered nearby and thought that the Cat's pearls of wisdom, which he dispensed at regular intervals, were the most profound things they had ever heard. The foolish creatures, in their zeal to crowd close to the Cat so that they might better hear his hoarsely whispered yarns and fantasies, his parables and proverbs, never realized that every day, a significant number of them vanished, never to be seen again. Naturally, the Partridge was wary about seeking the Cat's counsel. While strolling to the river bed, he told the Hare:
My dear departed mother taught me
That anyone who acts like a hermit is actually quite cagey
I do not trust that Cat one bit
Why don't the two of us just sit
And sort out this mess
I am sure we will make some progress!
By this time they had come near the Cat, who had watched their approach with interest, and whose extraordinarily sharp ears had picked up what was going on. Oh, he was a sly one, alright! He redoubled his expression of piousness, and stretched his arms up still higher, and seeing him thus, with his ribs exposed for all to see, the Partridge began to doubt his good mother's advice and believed that this particular Cat seemed truly wise and sincere. The Partridge and the Hare spoke in unison:
Oh wise one, oh Cat whose suffering is so great
We come to you for an answer to our debate
You, who know so much of the Codes of Law
You fill us with a great deal of awe
Help us decide who in the tree-hole should live
Who is right and who should forgive.
The Cat, seeing these were easy prey, croaked in a feeble, quavery voice:
I am old and I am weak
But I will help you with what you seek
But my ears are wasted and frail
So come closer and tell me your tale
I will give you the justice you seek
Come, come closer so I can hear you speak.
I am sure you can guess the not-so-happy ending! The foolish duo crept closer to the Cat, whereupon he pounced on them and ate them up. There is a less cynical version of this story, based on the sculptures on Arjuna's Penance. That is that the Cat really was earnest about his penance, being inspired to it by the example of Arjuna/Bhagiratha above. The mice frolicking safely at his feet are proof of the Cat's sincerity. Once again, the choice is yours.
I was fascinated to read that during the tsunami of December 2004, the sea near the Shore Temple at Mahabalipuram receded far back enough - almost half a kilometer - to reveal rocks and what might be the ruins and remnants of a lost city. So perhaps the legend of the Seven Pagodas was not a legend after all!
(c) Kamini Dandapani

Fantastic although the parable of the cat is the most interesting as the the other two are a bit too goody-goody.
Incidentally, the building of the East Coast Road was objected to by a number commies in Madras who said that the local ecology will be irredeemably damaged. I guess they were unable to get a Paashupata to stop it.
Posted by: Ejamanar | October 08, 2009 at 03:30 PM
Nice one Kamini, I shall savour it slowly, over a few readings!
Posted by: Ambika | October 08, 2009 at 10:43 PM
is 'ejamanar' dad? i'm guessing it's not rohan..anyway, very intense, fascinating piece. you put a lot of work into it! where did you get all the great images from by the way (esp the one from the bibliotheque francais). really think historical/travel writing is a great strength of yours. you should take it more seriously. I like the Bhagiratha version a little more but both were really interesting. keep it up!
Posted by: Snoop Dogg | October 09, 2009 at 12:35 AM
Inspired writing and lovely reading.You had added a lot of interest to a hackneyed topic.See my email.
appa
Posted by: Vasanta | October 09, 2009 at 02:17 AM
If you'd been my history teacher in school, I might have loved the subject even more :) (I used to treat history like one long fascinating true story - unfortunately the teachers focused more on learning the dates of various battles *sigh*)
And Mahabs? We were every single year to Mahabs on school excursions - in public I went with the majority view ("soooooooo boooooooooring ya! Mahabs again!") but secretly I loved every bit of Mahabs, from the cheap clothing shops to the sculpture places and the raggedy looking foreigners to... well, just loved Mahabs :)
Posted by: Shyam | October 09, 2009 at 06:17 AM
Ejamanar: I knew you would put in a word about your friends, the commies!
Ambika: Take your time - this is a long one, I know!
Snoop Dogg: The "commie" mention should have tipped you off. Glad you liked this. The photos are all mine, except the one of the map, which I found on the site of the Bibliotheque Nationale de Paris, which houses the original version of the Catalan Atlas.
Vasanta/Appa: So glad you liked this.
Shyam: Same here! On every excursion to Mahabs, people would moan and groan and say oh no, not again, but I think secretly everyone was quite excited! Have you been there lately?
And yes, my history teachers did the same - all they cared about was the dates of different battles, and how many people died in them!
Posted by: Kamini | October 09, 2009 at 11:48 AM
WOW! This is a real winner. You have put in such a lot of effort into writing this. This is marvellous. WOW!
Posted by: Rajesh Bala | October 09, 2009 at 02:40 PM
simply super ma. your writings are too good. please keep writing.
Posted by: Karthik K. | October 09, 2009 at 02:47 PM
Very nice
Posted by: K. | October 09, 2009 at 03:22 PM
This brought back memories of Mahabs, been there several times but the last time was a decade ago! Nice to know that the East Coast road is good, I don't remember what it was ten years ago. I do remember VGP and all those garrish attractions but that was on a much earlier trip, early 80's I think, I do remember driving past it on my last trip to Mahabs. You have regaled us with wonderful stories along with photographs. My favorite one was the cat story. I can't remember seeing that particular carving. I wish we humans could also converse like the hare and the partridge, even argue in the form of couplets! We'd probably be more balanced in our arguments! Very well written.
Posted by: Anup | October 09, 2009 at 09:56 PM
To borrow Thomas Carlyle words, "Graceful, ingenious, illuminative reading."
deadly mocktail of travel,history,reflection. Thankfully, my history teacher did not restrict herself to superficial dates and casualties. you are at par with william dalrymple...
Posted by: raghu raman | October 10, 2009 at 11:09 PM
I can't wait to get there Kamini. Such a beautiful place with exciting stories and those sculptures are mind blowing. Thanks for this.
Posted by: Indrani | October 11, 2009 at 08:44 AM
You brought back memories of many years ago. I did a tour of Tamilnadu and remember the drive from Madras to Mahabalipuram - it would have been the 1970s. It was like going off to nowhere. Mahabalipuram was fascinating and I still remember it clearly. Your recountings of the legends behind Arjuna's Penance are fantastic. I had heard of the first two, but not the cat story which I found myself chuckling through.
Posted by: Shankar Basu | October 12, 2009 at 09:13 AM
I applaud your effort in putting this together. You have done a wonderful job.
Posted by: remainnameless | October 12, 2009 at 09:15 AM
Its captivating!! Have to read it over again. Great job!!
Posted by: Samita | October 12, 2009 at 08:47 PM
Rajesh Bala: Thanks so much. It was something I really enjoyed doing.
Karthik: Thanks. Your encouragement keeps me writing!
K.: Thank you.
Anup: So glad you liked reading this. It would be fun to speak in couplets, wouldn't it? Although people might think us rather mad!
Raghu Raman: William Dalrymple? I am stunned and flattered! Thank you!
Indrani: I do hope you can visit - it is an amazing place.
Shankar Basu: That drive is quite different today, but once one nears Mahabalipuram, it is like old times.
Remainnameless: Thank you. I wish I had a name to address you by.
Samita: So glad you liked this. Thanks for the comment.
Posted by: Kamini | October 12, 2009 at 09:25 PM
I echo a comment made earlier about how you should have taught history. I too feel bad when looking back, all I can remember is that despite being from a country with such a rich and captivating history, all I can remember is mugging dates and spitting them out. :-(
Posted by: LikeItSpicy | October 13, 2009 at 12:39 PM
Foarte frumos.....voi urmari acest blog fantastic !
Felicitari
Posted by: Iosif | October 13, 2009 at 04:57 PM
I always wanted to go to mahabalipuram,but i dont think i need to go there,coz u have showed me and told me all.Kamini,great yeah,superb writing with details.i like writings which are in a detailed way.Even for my blogs,i write in a detailed way,not bits and pieces.
Posted by: lakshmi Arvind | October 14, 2009 at 12:00 PM
Great history and mythology lessons ! Wonderful photographs. Loved the map ; and ofcourse tickled by that cat story. Mamallapuram never ceases to fascinate; wading through the suffocating crowds ( these days) to get to the shore temple is fully worth the trouble. I read that the archeological dept. is putting together a team to dive for the remnants exposed by the tsunami. But funds are yet to come in , i believe.
Posted by: Yosee | October 15, 2009 at 06:04 AM
OMG! I just love the way u write ur posts with so many details, pics! Well researched :)
Imagine the protagonists, standing at the seashore and gazing out at the submerged pagodas - really nice :)
Posted by: Swaram | October 15, 2009 at 08:44 AM
LikeItSpicy:Me as a history teacher? Now, that's a laugh! But thanks. This shows there's always hope - the subject that I disliked the most in school is one of my favorites now!
Losif: Obrigado, gracias!
Lakshmi Arvind: Thanks for your nice words. I do hope you get to visit Mahabalipuram one day.
Yosee: Yes, in spite of the heat and crowds, a trip to Mahabalipuram is always special. I also read about the Archaelogical Survey's efforts - they are teaming up with the Indian Navy, I think. I would think this would be a very worthwhile project to fund.
Swaram: So glad you like this!
Posted by: Kamini | October 15, 2009 at 11:46 AM
Happy deepavali to you and yours, Kamini :)
Posted by: Shyam | October 17, 2009 at 06:17 PM
simbly fascinating...
enjoyed reading this meaty piece..
those were the times when people created something awe inspiring and everlasting.
today all they do is create big posters of some thalavan or superstar..
Posted by: maddy | October 17, 2009 at 07:46 PM
Kamini,
Lovely post & lovelier photographs! I feel the missing boar seems to be one reason why they say it's Bhagiratha. As you rightly said, Whether A or B it is lovely. Did you notice how they have captured the deer scratching its ears with its hind legs and the baby elephants under the big one! I thought that was brilliant and reflective of the attention to detail in Pallava art! . I vaguely remember the cat's story and that his name was DadhikarNa.
Posted by: Vidya | October 21, 2009 at 10:28 PM
I've been to Mahabalipuram years ago. Maybe it was at the height of day when the Sun not merely shone bright but shone hard that I hurried through the reliefs that were amazing to the eye to say the least.
I hope to return, this time in the morning and partake of its grandeur no less.
Your narrative is rich with imagery.
Posted by: Anil | October 22, 2009 at 10:30 AM
Kamini, am so glad DP accepted my suggestion!
Posted by: Uttara | November 01, 2009 at 06:42 AM
This is just too good for words. What a wonderful effort!
Posted by: Rajesh Pillai | November 02, 2009 at 02:51 AM
Awesome post Kamini, I almost felt being there right now..:)
Posted by: Srivalli | November 09, 2009 at 03:41 AM
Maddy, Anil, Rajesh and Srivalli: Thanks so much. Glad you enjoyed reading this.
Uttara: I am so touched by your gesture. Thanks!
Vidya: Yes, you are right, the fact that there is no boar is what bolsters the case for the Bhagiratha camp. I have heard Dhadikarna as the cat's name; also, somewhere, in some British version of the Panchatantra, the cat is named, oddly enough, Curd Ears!
Posted by: Kamini | November 17, 2009 at 01:58 PM